The End is Near!

Front Fenders

Paul blocked, painted and dressed each of the front fenders.

How pretty is that!

Car porn!

Fender Extensions

Paul made some rubber gaskets.
A little goo to stop the gasket from shifting while the extension is installed.
A perfect job!

The fender extensions look great. You may notice some black peeking out as the extension bolts were tightened. Paul didn't want to remove this excess rubber gasket for fear of damaging the still soft paint.

Hang the Front Fenders

Paul uses a cardboard strip, notched to follow curves, to the door edge while the fender is being positioned. Avoids paint damage.
Hey Chiver's - Mind the Gap!
Gonna need a bigger garage!!

Chip protector in place. Note only tape to the door so that it is easily removed when the fender is in place.
Looking good!
Now we need lights, grill and bumper.

Time to raise the flag!

A touch of Canada!

Proof of Life

Paul took this series of pictures to show me how the Fury project was progressing. The Beast is starting to look more and more like the car I took delivery of on November 7, 1969.

Battery Disconnect Switch

I asked Paul to figure out a good way to install a battery cut-off switch.
Paul sourced a JEGS Flaming River #898-FR1002 $35 switch and fabricated a custom mounting plate.
Rear view of Paul's custom mounting plate

Needs Headlights

Hidden Headlight Grill

When I ordered the Fury in 1969, I was really torn between a Sport Fury GT 2-door hardtop and a Fury III convertible. In the dealer's showroom a black GT hardtop with black bucket seats, a console and a magnificent grill with hidden headlights was parked next to a Fury III convertible. I wanted a combination of both; I wanted a Sport Fury GT convertible. Unfortunately there simply was not way to get a Sport Fury convertible so I decided to order a Fury III and build my own GT. I could get the engine, bucket seats, console and floor shift, but they wouldn't go for the hidden headlight grill. I figured, Ok, I'll buy one from a wrecker and install it myself.

Then life got in the way and the grill slid down my list of priorities and didn't get addressed until 1999, 30 years later. By this time I was looking at both the 70 and 71 hidden head light grills trying to decide which I liked best. So I bought a '71 and enough pieces to build up a '70 grill. Both were damaged, broken welds and cracked white metal casings. I continued to search for better specimens.

I finally made my decision; I would stick with the much cleaner looking 1970 grill. I had recently found a very nice and complete grill in a ’70 Fury wagon. Unfortunately it had the typical broken welds, but I figured JB Weld would handle that problem.

Paul’s first problem was the broken weld repair. He fabricated a metal plate which he installed with a combination of Pop-Rivets and JB Weld. The result is strong and looks very good. Paul finished the inside surfaces with silver paint which makes the epoxy patch virtually disappears to the eye.
Paul drilled two holes on either side of the break.
A closer view.
A small plate fabricated to fit the space. It has matching holes to those in the grill.

Everything held in place with a Vise Grip and then epoxy is used to "weld" everthing together. The end result is a very cleean repair which seems to be very strong.

Pop rivet the door mounting brackets back in place.

Check to see how everything fits.

Polish the doors and get all the brackets sand blasted and ready for paint.

Look great!

Polished and masked for black paint.

Not too shabby!

Paul did an excellent job restoring the grill badge.

Repeat for the lower grill above the valance.

Front Valance

Work out the dents.
Primed ready for block sanding.
Getting ready for color coat.

Final prime, color, wet sand and then clear coat.

Mount the lower grill.

Front Bumper Mounting Brackets

Taking "before" pictures will save a lot of head scratching during reassembly when you try to remember how all these strange shapes fit together.

Sand blasted, painted and reassembled on the rechromed bumper.

Install the grill assembly.

This sequence ...
.. needs ..
.. music!

Taking great care of the new paint, the bumper is positioned and mounting bolts tightened down.

Holy Moly!

Marker and Turn Signal Lights

Get everything sand blasted and ready for paint.

Prime coat
Color coat
Clear coat

Ready for installation.

Holy Moly only better!

We've got lights!

The Hood!

Well Paul has reached the last of the really big panels. The hood is a monster, its huge and has a compound curves which will make sanding and polishing a real challange. Because the hood is literally in your face from many viewing angles, even tiny flaws will stick out like a sore thumb.

First block sanding uncovers many bumps and dips.

More sanding primer.

About as good as it can get.

Final primer coat.

Color coat, note the dull gloss.

After clear coating the color really pops and the shine is awesome!

440 engine call-out badges are next.


I bought a hood from a fellow in Montana for $5. I told him all I wanted was the Plymouth letters, so he mailed the badges and resold the hood. Good deal all around!
Paul does his tiny paint brush magic.
Looking Good!

Turn Signals Installed.

Paul called me at this point and said he had just sanded, painted and polished Texas!!

Paint and install hood hinges and cross supports.

Hood latch parts ready for the sand blaster. Note the chipped red paint on the upper right latch part.
Primed ready for some black paint.
Clear coat "bare metal" to avoid ugly paint chips when the hood is openned and closed.

Ta Da .. The egg has hatched!

I can't believe the Beast is finally finished!
It's been a very long and rough road, now we will cruise!

The Land Yacht is launched!

The first pictures in the "wild". I encouraged Paul to take Gina for a cruise. These cell phone pictures were taken near the Bayview Beach boat launch.

Bystanders were warned,

“Anyone approaching with a christening bottle of any kind will be shot!”

Rather an appropriate "launch" location for a "Land Yacht" don't you think!