Finish Interior, Engine Startup

Rear Seat Side Panels

Rear seat side panels look a little rough, but not nearly as bad as I had expected. Some water damage, but again much less than I thought. The vinyl needs to be glued in some spots. The wrinkles shouldn't show hen the seat is in place.

After a good cleaning the panels start to look better.

Rear armrests are still soft and the backing is nice and flexible so a good cleaning followed with a coating of SEM blck vinyl dye.

Wow and double Wow, everything looks new, maybe even better than new! I am very impressed with SEM vinyl dye, the arm rests look amazing!

Door Panels

Forty to fifty years ago, chrome was king; car owners loved it almost to the point where some cars had just slightly more paint than chrome. Unfortunately chrome interior items received a lot of wear and tear and it didn't take long for all the shiny bits to grow dull and look like crap.

Reproduction parts have appeared, but typically only larger pieces like arm rest bases. These products have been chromed using a vacuum plating process which in itself is expensive. These parts are relatively expensive and are usually only available for the most popular cars. Chrome tapes and bands are tougher since every application seemed to use a different cross section. To compound the problem, tapes or bands are welded to the backing making removal very difficult. Different types of “stock” chrome tape have been used with varying success. They use a glue back to bond them, however the very high heat generated in a closed car on a hot day usually causes the glue to fail and the part falls off.

Ever since 1996 when Sue and I first pulled everything apart, the door panels and head rests have been a concern. Each had what looked like chrome plated tape or bands welded to the vinyl backing. Finding a replacement chrome tape was unsuccessful.

Paul, like many other professional restorers, has tried various types of chrome like paint with varying degrees of success. Typically parts are paint silver and buried under enough coats of clear to simulate some sparkle and depth. The results, while not chrome, were far better than doing nothing.

Mask the dark section.
SEM black vinyl dye.
Not bad at all.

Mask and paint the band black.
Mask again and paint the silver band.
Looks a lot better than it was!

As the above pictures show, the banding looks very good. However the lack of chrome sparkle was still bugging me, I felt the bands would be ok while the top was up and the door panels remained out of direct sunlight. However, top down on a bright sunny day would be a different story. So while Paul continued finishing the interior I started to search the world for a better solution. I seemed to remember reading something back in the in the early 2000's, but those grey cells were long go. So I began to search the Internet and car forum historical postings for a clue. Mean while, Paul continued to work on finishing the interior.

Finish doors

A better picture of Paul's silver used to simulate chrome.

Bare Metal foil

It took me nearly a week of searching, before I found gold, well not gold, chrome!

Years ago on the C-Body DryDock, a member Stitcherbob, a professional upholstery, wrote about a product called Bare Metal Foil. This product had been developed for model builders so they could apply chrome to bumpers and such. Airplane model builders wanted to completely cover their models to produce an aluminum look complete with tiny details such as rivets.

It didn’t take long before a super thin metal foil was created and sold in roughly 6” x 12” sheets by a company called Bare Metal Foil. To make a long story short, I checked out their web store and purchased three sheets of "001 CHROME BARE-METAL FOIL". They shipped he order directly to Paul.

I phoned Paul and although he was sceptical, he agreed to try the stuff out. Well it didn’t take long before Paul was on the phone, Bare Metal Foil was a winner! So much so that that I'll let Paul tell you in his own words as he uses it to redo one of my door panels.

Paul's world class video

(opens in a new window)

which I thought you would find most interesting.

How about that sport's fans, We got chrome! I can't believe how easy it was to apply the foil. I'm thinking I need to get some more metal foil to cover the armrest bases. A replated base is about $60 and a sheet of foil about $6, not a difficult decision!

Wow, unbelievable job Paul!

Eye Candy!

Quarter Inside Panel Water Deflector

Restoring a car quickly produces boxes, shelves and garage corners filled with parts, all hopefully documented so they may end up back where they are supposed to live. When Paul starts a project, he takes pictures of everything from every angle before removing anything. One disassembly begins, parts are again photographed to make note of which way bolts are inserted and to show all the surrounding parts.

Back in 1996 when Sue and I took the car apart, we didn't have a digital camera and film cameras were too expensive to use to take pictures of bolts and things. At roughly fifty cents a print, we didn't waste film on bolts and brackets. When the car went to IVR and the Fury Nut, they didn't waste their film on anything but "Look at how great my work is!" pictures. When the "Fury Nut" dropped off the earth, the result was total confusion. I raced around collecting my parts without any first hand knowledge of which parts were mine and in some cases even what the part was for. To be on the safe side I latched onto everything that looked even remotely like a Fury part. Over the years I tried to get everything identified but two matching plastic parts remained. They had Mopar part numbers, 2964544-5 indicating they were a left and right pair and the Parts List simply identified them as "Quarter Inside Panel Water Deflector". Paul waited until all the Quarter Inside Panel parts were installed and looked for suitable mounting holes. For those with a convertible using these parts, here is where they live!

They do in fact deflect water into the quarter panel drains rather than let it pour down behind the seat and soak the floor.

Prepare to start the engine!

When the engine and transmission were installed on the front clip we discovered most of the shift linkage was missing. A link is needed to connect the steering column to the transmission such that when the transmission is in Park or Neutral the ignition key can be removed locking the column. If the column linkage is tied to unlock the steering, the key can’t be removed. So we started search for suitable linkage.

Fortunately Gary’s parts car had some components and a couple of Paul’s donor cars provided the rest. Paul had to make a few slight alterations where the steering column linkage and the console shifter linkage join at the transmission shift arm.

All in all a very good job and the linkage works smooth as silk!

Link between the steering column shifter, upper left, to the out board end of the "Z" bar. The "Z" bar bridges from the frame rail to the transmision case.
Link between the in board end if the "Z" bar to the transmission gear shift lever. A second link from the console must also connect here a special double connector block is needed. Paul modified a single lever block with a hole drilled for the second rod and a hole drilled and tapped for a locking screw.
This view shows the link between the modified block on the shift lever back to the floor shift linkage from the console.

Core Support, Radiator and Plumbing.

Electronic Ignition with dual ballast resistor
Filled the transmission, radiator and engine with fluids. A can of zinc additive was added to the engine to assist with cam break in.
Paul really likes things that shine - best looking voltage regulator I've ever seen!

I'm an engineer, I love data!

Just before start-up, Paul called and asked if he could add a temporary oil gauge to make sure the engine had good pressure. Well one thing led to another and we settled on a permanent oil gauge plus voltage and temperature gauges to keep it company.

Paul mounted the additional gauges to the left of the tach so the driver’s eye could sweep from side to side and quickly scan everything.

I sit high in the seat and have the seat positioned nearly as far back as it will go so hopefully the gauges are high enough to clear my right leg.

Start Up!

When Paul performed the initial engine start up, he decided to document everything with two part video. The first part would be a walk around with comments to point out all the basic preparation steps. For the second part, Paul fixed the camera on work table vice and let it run while get was busy running the engine and double checking for leaks and anything that didn't look happy.

The first video worked perfectly but for some reason the second video was lost. Robert, another Calgarian whose '70 Mach 1 Mustang is next for restoration, had presented Paul with a newer and better camera which being rated at 18 Mega Pixels creates huge file sizes. The first video created was 260 Mb and 3.5 min long, which equates to about 75 Mb per minute of video. Paul figures the second video ran 25 min, so I'm guessing the file was right around 2 Gb. Paul's computer is pretty old, very out of date so I'm not sure if his unpatched Windows can handle files around the 2 Gb limit of older Windows versions. Could be his disk drive doesn't have enough free space for a file that large. Paul copied all the files from the camera SD card to the computer and checked to see that the right number files made the trip. Then then cleared the SD card for the next run of pictures. It appears the computer transfered the video file, but it made a zero length copy.

Paul felt pretty bad, but what the heck, if that's the worse to happen on start up, we're laughing! Back in 2007 I bought a “slightly used” Edelbrock Performer 750 car Richard Fellman in Reno Nevada. Richard had just purchased the carb for his 440 Monaco and although it worked perfectly he decided to sell it and put dual carbs on the Monaco. He asked $150 which was a little less than half retail and Richard promised to ship USPA for $27.70, so I bought it. Unfortunately, he shipped USP and by the time all was said and done I had $260 on the table.

Live and learn, or so I thought!

Thinking I had an essential new carburetor, I was very surprised when Paul phoned and told me the carb was bad. It ran so-so, but the idle screws could be run all the way in the engine kept right on running. Plus there appeared to be a small fuel leak into the venture, every couple of minutes a drop would accumulate and drop causing the engine to surge. Thinking maybe 6 or 7 years sitting in a box on my garage shelf could have dried the gaskets out or possible old fuel may have left some gunk behind, Paul took the carb apart.

What Paul found was disconcerting.

I think this is the primary venturi booster. The little disk should have been pressed into the hole above during assembly at the factory. For some reason, poor quality control or whatever, the disk was found laying loose in the carb. Paul says there is something in the hole that is factory pre-set and then sealed. Got to wonder why Richard didn't notice the carb ran like crap or maybe he did.
Paul put the disk just below the hole.
The disk placed in the hole, swaged in place and was later sealed with epoxy to make sure it didn't leak or fall out again.

Paul put the carb back together and found his fix didn't remove any of the problems, the idle still wouldn't adjust and it still leaked fuel. Paul got on the phone with Edelbrock, they weren't too interested in our loose parts, poor idle or dripping fuel, but they did say a mild 440 should be very happy with a 600 cfm carb. The felt the 750 was too much carb and because the engine couldn't handle that volume easily, street performance would suffer. The 750 cfm was really more for racing. Rather than screw around any more with my $260 junk carb, I told Paul to buy a new 600 cfm and see how that works.

Problems solved, it runs like a damn!!

Not only does it work great, it was cheaper than the piece of crap Richard Fellman unloaded on me for $260.

Wheel Wells

Happy Drunk

Come on already - Get-r-Done!