Greasy Stuff First

Rear Disc Brakes

After a bunch of research I decided a few years ago to buy a rear disc brake kit from TSM (The Streetrod Mfg. Co., Inc.) For those interested in detail, I bought the "8 3/4 Chrysler and Dana 60" kit with emergency brake calipers.

Specifically, I purchased:

    2160 8 3/4 inch Chrysler and Dana 60 rear disc brake kit $269.95 pair
    3110 New (Not Rebuilt) Calipers with parking brakes $300.00 pair
    3111 Short Cable Extensions $20.00 pair
    3702-8 Braided Stainless hose 8" $50.00 pair
    3328 Proportioning valve - Adjustable $49.95

    Total 689.90 + 10% S&H

    Even though those prices are cira 2006 they have remained unchanged.

Paul cleaned and checked the springs. He found they were still in good shape and he didn't think we needed to look at replacement or re-arching. In 1974 I installed a pair of heavy duty air shocks and I was surprized to find they still held air in 1996. I suspect the reason why the springs are still good is those air shocks held the weight of the car all those years.

Paint
Paul gets right into the greasy stuff.
Ready to install.

New Seal
Spacer
Fit check.


Mount the rotor.
Caliper outside view
Caliper inside view showing parking brake assembly.

Paul was pleased that the flex brake lines could use the existing welded brackets.
Connect parking brake cable.

Paul replaced the brake hardlines with double wall copperized steel with galvanized zinc brake line. Much easier to work with.
TSM supplies a nice clean looking setup.

All buttoned up and ready to bolt back on the body shell.

Front Suspension, Steering and Disc brakes

Even though the Fury Nut had redone the ball joints and the brakes, Paul decided to replace all the old bushings and then clean everything up like new. So everything was removed.
I've been justly accused of being a details freak, but I must admit that Paul makes me look like a beginner. Paul just hates anything that he hasn't rendered to basic components before re-assemble. In the end, the result is so perfect, who could possibly complain!
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Got to admit the tear down was justified. Those rubber bushings look like they died many years ago.

Everything gets new paint!

Ready to go, or we thought.
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When I posted these pictures on the CbodyDryDock it was quickly pointed out Paul had installed the hold downs upside down. Turned out the Fury Nut was responsible and Paul had simply put them back the way they were. They have been corrected so we are good to go.
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Transmission

The transmission was rebuilt back in 2000 when the Fury Nut was working on the car. At the time a shift-kit was installed. Since then the transmission has lived hanging on it's cross member and held in place with rope and a well placed screwdriver. The input shaft shows surface rust, most likely a result of its winter and summer parked in a field. Paul cleaned everything up and with some paint made it look like new.

When the pan was removed, the transmission was bone dry. Hopefully after 14 years with no oil, the clutch pack and other internal seals are all ok. I guess we'll know soon enough. Worst case, rebuild it again.

Clean everything. Discarded the old u-joint.

Little surface rust.
More surface rust.
Pan looks good.

Inside is clean, but very dry.
New filter can't hurt.
Pan looks much better!

Wow, looks brand new!
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0D142696 are the last 8 digits of my VIN number!
3410669 L 2917 1170

3410669 = part number
L = transmission plant code
2917 = 23 July 1969 build date
1170 = 1170th built that day

The torque converter is a hi-stall from a B-body that had an externally balanced engine so the monster balance weight had to be ground off.
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